After an hour of thirst and worry I started to look around the edges of the canyons.

I found a greener, less dangerous way down, and though it still looked steep we were running out of options. There was still no sign of human life and we were beginning to question where, and how, we would be sleeping tonight.

We made our way down slowly and soon found a goat path that led all the way to the ground. At last a saving grace. Half an hour of walking and we were sanitising water from the river, counting our lucky stars.

But time was still against us and the route snaked through the canyons laboriously. It would have felt adventurous anyway but we'd had enough for one day. Over streams and through branches, up and down we paced until we met a herd of cows.

At first they appeared an obstacle but after a few whistles and calls we got them to lead the way. We were doing the farmer's job in ushering them home anfd they brought us out onto the lowland paths that ran to the villages. We left them by the water and marched on as night started to creep in, and with it the issue of where to sleep.

Almost on cue, lights shone from across the river. We couldn't understand or make out the figures and considered carrying on, but then a horse splashed towards us with a lad about my age on its back.

We gathered they were only here to help, and one by one we were ridden to safety to their yurt and tent. There lived a farmer, his son and his son's wife and their baby. They filled us with bread and tea and gave us a place to sleep. They were like heroes to us and so, in the morning, we gave them 1000 som, despite them insisting they didn't want any money.

The son's wife had an injured ankle so I offered paracetamol but the men had prepared a bowl with some type of herbal cure inside. We took pictures of them and agreed to send them to the nearest market, where they would be recognised. We set off at 9am and were in Kyzart 3 hours later, before taking another 3 hours to negotiate a lift back to Kochkor.