We all make mistakes. Most are minor errors, ending in small grievances.

But every so often a bad decision is made that has diabolical consequences. In this case there was a couple of clangers, starting in Bishkek's Geoid, when we chose not to buy the map for Song-Kol.

We arrived at the Lake with just enough time in the evening to put up the tent and cook tea. The water looked sublime as the sun slowly diminished. We knew the weather at night could be erratic, we were 3000m in elevation after all, and our first sleep was met with rain and strong gales.

The dampness in the morning delayed our trek but we made some progress, stopping at a yurt for bread, jam and tea on the way, all in exchange for a bag of biscuits.

Our bags were heavy but the weather cleared and by the second night we had a great view of the lake. We had climbed a little and were making the most of the camping equipment, food, swiss army knife and salt and pepper holder.

On the third day we took a wrong turn as we walked higher but a farmer pointed us in the right direction and soon we were descending the peaks at a fast rate with a huge valley ahead - the villages of Jumgal and Kyzart in distant sight.

We reached the bottom and joined the Jumgal River, pitching the tent again before dusk. Little did we know, at this peaceful time, what we were about to let ourselves in for..