We returned to Urumqi and immersed ourselves into Uyghur culture.

We met up with Pauline's university friend Reila and were treated to a barrage of culinary delights at her Parent's home. These people know how to treat guests and the living room table was full of nuts, different types of bread and sweets for any friends popping over.

Later, we ate at a Kazakh restaurant with family and friends and the table was filled with foodstuffs, including slices of horse meat.

The following morning we took to a scenic rural place half an hour south of the city where we basically ate as much food as humanely possible in a yurt; mutton everywhere, salad coming out of your ears - all delicious except chicken feet, not for me.

A couple of beers and Palwan chasers later and I was loving the frisbee and football games before a spot of Uyghur dancing to some traditional and modern central asian songs.

Despite the language barrier we had been treated like royalty and were sad to leave.

We left Urumqi the following morning and after a night in Korla we set off for Kuche. Here we visited the ancient ruins of Subashi, a former Buddhist settlement. Set to a backdrop of weird and wonderful rugged mountains this place had an unforgettably eerie feel to it. Dusty and eroded walls gave an inkling of a different life, and a very different era.

Back on the bus, and our northern Silk Road quest would end at Aksu, a quick change to cross Lop Nur to the southern Silk Road.