When people think of The Great Wall they see in their minds the usual images; winding hilly stone paths and lookout towers surrounded by lush green pastures and mountains.

And so it is in the East of China. But at Jiayuguan it's a very different scene. For here marks the terminus of the Wall, a great fort symbolizing the traditional border of East and West, and a vital stop off point for trading on the old Silk Roads.

Formerly controlled by the Ming Dynasty, among others, the fort has seen many a battle, and it's desolate location marks the start of the treacherous and unforgiving desert plains in the Western provinces of China.

The rest of the town retained the Chinese way of retail, eateries a plenty, and blaring car horns day and night.

The bumpy bus ride to Dunhuang the next day was eye opening, a terrain you would never expect from this enormous nation. Sparse desert, rocky and salty at times, and the Black and Qilian Mountain ranges to add more effect.

Notably hotter, Dunhuang had many natural attractions, but with limited time we settled on Ming Sha, the singing sand dunes. And spectacular they were.

A relatively easy climb but great views at sunset over the Crescent Moon Lake (despite the artificial parts nearby), the Mountains to the south, and Dunhuang to the north. For 25 Yuan we slid down on a dinghy before the darkness crept in.

The morning saw another uncomfortable bus journey into Xinjiang province, and the promise of an even more intrigueing China.